I have been getting some reels back for warranty work because the screws that attach the reel to the reel seat have backed out. I have been fixing the problem with red loctite. I think blue loctite may be close to what they used in the factory, which apparently, sometimes doesn’t hold. I have been able to get the screws back out even with the red loctite, so no worries about that.
Remove the small screw that locks the reel handle bolt down. Part # 23A
Remove the Handle Assembly Screw, part #23 and the handle.
Remove the spring washer, part # 55. I have seen some inconsistencies on some of the reels with this part. The drawing on the box doesn’t call for it here. I have some old reels and an old drawing that calls for two more in other places. I will show two washers where I think they go. This is probably the least important place for this washer. However, it does keep the star drag from getting wedged into the handle by someone with a gorilla fist.
Remove the star drag. I like to lube the threads with Reel-Ex prior to removal; especially if there is any salt build up or verdigris. For those of us that wash our reels down with Salt Away, if you don’t rinse well there will be a residue left. It won’t hurt anything, but it will get in places that don’t want or need foreign substances.
Remove the second spring washer. I think that this is the most important place for this washer. It keeps pressure on the drag assembly when you tighten the star drag and also spreads out the pressure between the spacing sleeve, part #9, and the star drag. I can’t tell how robust the brass insert in star drag is, and I think it is good to spread the pressure across a bigger surface area. I have not received any broken star drags due to a washer not being there. The broken star drags I have seen are because someone ham fisted the drag and broke the star points. Remove the spacing sleeve, part #9.
Remove the five screws holding the right side plate. Don’t use a screw driver to pry the plate off, if it is stuck. Gently, with a wooden handle on a hammer or screw driver (don’t wack it with metal or plastic), tap the edge in several places and then tap the face of the side plate. It should come loose.
The drawings show a spring washer on top of the drag stack. I haven’t seen a reel with a spring washer on top of the drag stack since the first shipment a couple of years ago. I am not convinced that having one here is a good idea. I think it puts uneven pressure on the drag stack and has potential to cause the drag stack to bind. I think having the spacing sleeve directly on the drag stack is better. I run 14 rods during the spring and fall Striper season, and all my reels do not have a spring washer on the drag stack. Yes, I run all JC 30s on Reel Draggin Tackle rods. I could be wrong, and perhaps someone will convince me otherwise or Salon will fix their drawing.
Remove one of the small screws that hold the reel to the reel seat. Don’t have both removed at the same time. It is important to keep the reel aligned by doing one at a time.
I like to put my finger at the back side of the hole and insert a drop of Loctite. Once the screw is in and tight, (it is O.K. for you gorilla fists to crank down on these screws) remove and add Loctite to the other screw. Everyone has their own method for doing things, just wipe up any excess Loctite prior to reassembling the side plate. Push the eccentric jack, part # 11 clockwise to the stops. See the next picture.
If you are looking at the drawing, the eccentric jack is in the opposite order of what is actually in the reel. The grease usually holds them in anyway. Watch out for the springs, they just sit on posts waiting for some knucklehead to knock them onto the shop floor. Then they purposely roll under the knucklehead’s feet and get flattened!
Put the right side plate back on and hod it tight. Turn the crank shaft, part # 68 clockwise, until the cover snaps tight and the eccentric lever assembly moves to start reel’. While holding the plate tight, install three screws before letting go. Put your tongue back in your mouth.
To complete the job, start following the procedure backwards from step “Remove the spacing sleeve, part #9.
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